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Square-Necked Fair-Isle

from the Australian Woman’s Mirror, June 30th, 1931

Girl wearing a fitted, long sleeved fairisle jumper/sweater.

THIS jumper fits a slight figure (33in. to 35in. bust measurement). The whole of the work is carried out in stocking stitch that is, alternate rows of plain and purl — with the exception of the ribbing at neck, wrists and bottom of jumper.

Materials

Four ounces of wool in fawn mixture,
1 oz. in beige and
1/2 oz. each of mauve, dark red and white;
also one pair of old UK No. 9 (US 5, 3.75mm) bone knitting needles and one pair of Old UK No. 11. (US 2.5, 3mm)

Measurements

Length from the shoulders, 24 1/2 in. / 62.25cm;
length of sleeve all round under the arms, 37in. / 94cm;
length of sleeve-seam (including turned-back cuff), 20in. / 51cm

Tension

Fifteen stitches to 2in. / 5cm in width and 17 rows to 2in. / 5cm in depth.

Abbreviations

K, knit;
p, purl;
sts, stitches;
st-st, stocking-stitch;
dec, decrease;
inc, increase;
rep, repeat;
x, fawn mixture;
b, beige;
m, mauve;
d, dark red;
w, white.

Always work into the back of all cast-on sts to produce firm edges.

Back

Begin at lower edge of back.

Cast on 144 sts in x on smaller needles and work in k 1 and p 1 rib for 6 rows.

Continue in rib as follows, always knitting first row of a new color: 4 b, 4 x, 2 m, 8 x. This completes border.

Change to larger needles and work 4 rows st-st in x.

Then begin Chart A

In words

1st Row: (K) * 1 x, 1 d, 3 x, 1 d, 4 x, 4 d, 4 x, 1 d, 3 x, 1 d, 1 x; rep from * to end.

2nd Row: (P) * 1 d, 3 x, 2 d, 3 x, 1 d, 4 x, 1 d, 3 x, 2 d, 3 x, 1 d; rep from *.

3rd Row: (K) * 1 d, 2 x, 2 d, 3 x, 2 d, 4 x, 2 d, 3 x, 2 d, 2 x, 1 d; rep from *.

4th Row: (P) * 2 x, 2 d, 3 x, 2 d, 6 x, 2 d, 3 x, 2 d, 2 x; rep from *.

5th Row: (K) * 1 b,2 d, 3 b, 2 d, 8 b, 2 d, 3 b, 2 d, 1 b; rep from *.

6th Row: (P) * 1 b, 1 d, 4 b, 1 d, 3 b, 1 d, 2b, 1 d, 3 b, 1 d, 4 b, 1 d, 1 b; rep from *.

7th Row: (K) * 1 d, 4 b, 1 d, 5 b, 2 d, 5 b, 1 d, 4 b, 1 d; rep from *

8th row: (P) * 1 d, 4 b, 1 d, 5 b, 2 d, 5 b, 1 d, 4 b, 1 d; rep from *

9th Row: (K) * 1 b, 1 d, 4 b, 1 d, 3 b, 1 d, 2b, 1 d, 3 b, 1 d, 4 b, 1 d, 1 b; rep from *.

10th Row: (P) * 1 b,2 d, 3 b, 2 d, 8 b, 2 d, 3 b, 2 d, 1 b; rep from *.

11th Row: (K) * 2 x, 2 d, 3 x, 2 d, 6 x, 2 d, 3 x, 2 d, 2 x; rep from *.

12th Row: (P) * 1 d, 2 x, 2 d, 3 x, 2 d, 4 x, 2 d, 3 x, 2 d, 2 x, 1 d; rep from *.

13th Row: (K) * 1 d, 3 x, 2 d, 3 x, 1 d, 4 x, 1 d, 3 x, 2 d, 3 x, 1 d; rep from *.

14th Row: (P) * 1 x, 1 d, 3 x, 1 d, 4 x, 4 d, 4 x, 1 d, 3 x, 1 d, 1 x; rep from * to end.

Charted

Colour knitting chart "A" for square necked fair-isle

Work 12 rows of st-st in x, then work

Chart B

In words

1st Row: (K) In b.

2nd Row: (P) In b.

3rd Row: (K) * 1 b, 2 m, 3 b, 1 m, 3 b, 2 m; rep from *.

4th Row: (P) * 2 m , 2 b , 3 m , 2 b, 2 m, 1 b; rep from *.

5th Row: (K) * 3 b, 1 m, 1 b, 1 m, 1 b, 1 m, 1 b, 1 m, 2 b; rep from *.

6th Row: (P) * 3 b, 2 m, 1 b, 2 m, 4 b. Rep from *.

7th Row: (K) * 2 w, 4 m, 1 w, 4 m, 1 w. Rep from *.

8th Row: (P) * 2 m, 3 w, 1 m, 3 w, 2 m, 1 w; rep from *.

9th Row: (K) * 2 w, 4 m, 1 w, 4 m, 1 w. Rep from *.

10th Row: (P) * 3 b, 2 m, 1 b, 2 m, 4 b. Rep from *.

11th Row: (K) * 3 b, 1 m, 1 b, 1 m, 1 b, 1 m, 1 b, 1 m, 2 b; rep from *.

12th Row: (P) * 2 m , 2 b , 3 m , 2 b, 2 m, 1 b; rep from *.

13th Row: (K) * 1 b, 2 m, 3 b, 1 m, 3 b, 2 m; rep from *.

14th Row: (P) In b.

15th Row: (K) In b.

Charted

Chart B for square necked fair-isle

Work 9 rows st-st in x; rep Chart A again but reverse colors, working b instead of d and d instead of b.

Then work 10 rows st-st in x.

Work chart B, then work 13 rows st-st in x.

Work chart A as first time,

then work 12 rows st-st in x, casting off 6 sts at begin- ning of last 2 rows for armholes.

Work Chart B, casting off 6 sts at beginning of first 2 rows in b.

There are now 120 sts left.

Work 9 rows st-st in x.

Work Chart A again, but working pattern in b, as you did second time, and beginning in centre of chart to allow for 12 cast-off sts as follows:

1st Row: (K) 2 b, 4 x, 1 b, 3 x, 1 b, 1 x; rep to end as before.

2nd Row: (P) 2 x, 1 b, 3 x, 2 b, 3 x, 1 b; rep to end as before.

Continue in this way until you have finished Chart A, then work 4 rows st-st in x and leave these sts to be grafted later to the front.

Front

Work front exactly as back till you have worked Chart B the third time, then work 3 rows st-st in x, finishing after a p row.

Next Row: K 36 sts in x and slip remaining 84 sts on to a st-holder.

Work 5 rows more in st-st, then repeat Chart A, working pattern in B. Begin k rows in centre of chart and p rows as before.

Work 10 rows st-st in x, then work Chart B.

Work 5 rows st-st in x, then slip these sts on a st-holder.

Go back to remaining 84 sts, leaving centre 48 sts on st-holder for neck, and work on remaining 36 exactly as for other front, except that, when working Chart A, k rows should begin as before, but p rows in centre of chart.

Graft these two sets of sts to each side of back, leaving centre 48 sts free.

Pick up 48 sts on smaller needles and work in k 1, p 1 rib, dec 1 st at each end of every alternate row as follows:

Two rows x,
2 rows m,
4 rows x,
4 rows b,
2 rows x.

Cast off in rib.

Work on both sets in same way.

Pick up on smaller needles about 56 sts across each shoulder in x, and rib 2 rows.

Dec 1 st at each end of every alternate row and working in colors as follows;
Two rows m,
4 x,
4 b,
2 x.

Cast off.

Sleeves

For sleeves begin at cuff edge. Cast on 72 sts in x on smaller needles. Work in k 1 and p 1 rib as follows;

Six rows x,
4 b,
4 x,
2 m,
12 x,
4 b,
4 x,
2 m,
6 x.

Change to larger needles and work 4 rows st-st in x.

Now work Chart A. Continue to copy charts as on back of jumper, but inc 1 st at each end of every 6th row until there are 106 sts on needle and working extra sts into new patterns.

When you have as many patterns as on back as far as armholes and finishing with 12 rows of st-st in x,
begin Chart B, dec 1 st at each end of every row.

Then work 8 rows st-st in x, casting off 3 sts at beginning of every row and dec 1 st at end of every row.

Cast off remaining sts.

Making Up

Press work on both sides with a warm iron and damp cloth.

Sew sleeves into armholes, then sew up sleeve and side seams.

Sew corners of neck neatly and press all seams.

The original of this pattern is in the public domain. Updated text with coloured charts is copyright Sarah Bradberry, May 2026