This pattern was published in the Weekly Times (Melbourne) on June 1st, 1949. I have added colour charts, modernised the language, and clarified some of the original instructions which I found to be confusing. (The photo has been made clearer using a photo restoration app).
Every sportsman will appreciate the roominess of this jerkin, and it will have particular appeal if knitted in club colours. For those who do not wish to include the Fair Isle design, the pattern section may be knitted plain in stocking stitch.
Materials
Yarn
7 ozs. (200gm) of 3-ply crochet wool in a Natural colour (N),
1 oz. (28gm) in each of Red (R),
Bottle Green (G),
and Yellow (Y).
Note from Sarah: I am working on the assumption this is Daphne 3 ply crochet wool from Lincoln Mills, which is a fingering weight yarn.
Choose a yarn that knits nicely at your chosen gauge/size.
4 buttons.
Needles
Size 11 (3mm, US 2.5) needles.
Use a pair of Old UK No. 8 (4mm, US 6) needles if making to fit 38-40 inch chest;
No. 9 (3.74mm US 5) needles for 34-36 inch;
and No. 10 (3.25mm, US 3) needles for 32 inch.
Size 11 (3mm, US 2.5) needles are used for the ribbing on all sizes. I have used the terms “smaller needles” and “larger needles” throughout, to reduce confusion.
Gauge
Gauge is not stated in the pattern. With 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10cm) of ease, these are the gauges I have worked out.
To fit size 38″ to 40″: 21.5 sts to 4 inches (10cm)
Size 34 to 36: 24 sts to 4 inches (10cm)
Size 32: 25.4 sts to 4 inches (10cm)
The Pattern
Abbreviations
K – Knit
P – Purl
Rep – Repeat
Inc – Increase
Dec – Decrease
St St – Stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl)
G St – Garter stitch (every row knit)
N – Natural
G – Green
R – Red
Y – Yellow
The Front
Using two of the larger needles (or smaller needles and your choice of stretchy cast on), and Natural coloured wool, cast on108 sts.
Change to smaller needles work in rib as follows:
1st Row: P1, * k2, p2; rep. from * to last st p1.
2nd Row: K1, * p2, k2; rep. from * to last st, k1
Rep. these 2 rows 17 times (36 rows completed)
Change to larger needles and work the 1st row of the chart (reading from right to left)
Front Chart in Words
Work in stocking stitch, beginning with a knit row.
Row 1 (RS) knit: *5 N, 1 G, 6 N, 2 G, 3 N, 1 G, 3 N, 2 G, 1 N ; work from * 4 times, 5 N, 1 G, 6 N. (108 sts)
Row 2 (WS) purl: 6 N, 1 G, 5 N, *1 N, 2 G, 3 N, 1 G, 3 N, 2 G, 6 N, 1 G, 5 N ; work from * 4 times.
Row 3: *4 N, 3 G, 6 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 2 N ; work from * 4 times, 4 N, 3 G, 5 N.
Row 4: 5 N, 3 G, 4 N, *3 N, 2 G, 1 N, 1 G, 1 N, 2 G, 7 N, 3 G, 4 N ; work from * 4 times.
Row 5: *5 N, 1 G, 9 N, 5 G, 4 N ; work from * 4 times, 5 N, 1 G, 6 N.
Row 6: 2 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 1 N, *5 N, 3 G, 6 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 1 N ; work from * 4 times.
Row 7: *1 Y, 2 R, (1 Y, 1 R) × 2, 1 Y, 2 R, 1 Y, 1 R, 4 Y, 3 R, 4 Y, 1 R ; work from * 4 times, 1 Y, 2 R, (1 Y, 1 R) × 2, 1 Y, 2 R, 1 Y, 1 R.
Row 8: 1 R, 1 Y, 2 R, (1 Y, 1 R) × 2, 1 Y, 2 R, 1 Y, *1 R, 4 Y, 3 R, 4 Y, 1 R, 1 Y, 2 R, (1 Y, 1 R) × 2, 1 Y, 2 R, 1 Y ; work from * 4 times.
Row 9: *1 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 6 N, 3 G, 5 N ; work from * 4 times, 1 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 2 N.
Row 10: 6 N, 1 G, 5 N, *4 N, 5 G, 9 N, 1 G, 5 N ; work from * 4 times.
Row 11: *4 N, 3 G, 7 N, 2 G, 1 N, 1 G, 1 N, 2 G, 3 N ; work from * 4 times, 4 N, 3 G, 5 N.
Row 12: 5 N, 3 G, 4 N, *2 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 6 N, 3 G, 4 N ; work from * 4 times.
Row 13: *2 G, 7 N, 2 G, 1 N, 2 G, 3 N, 1 G, 3 N, 2 G, 1 N ; work from * 4 times, 2 G, 7 N, 2 G, 1 N.
Row 14: 1 N, 2 G, 3 N, 1 G, 3 N, 2 G, *(1 N, 2 G, 3 N, 1 G, 3 N, 2 G) × 2 ; work from * 4 times.
Row 15: *1 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 6 N, 3 G, 5 N ; work from * 4 times, 1 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 2 N.
Row 16: 3 N, 2 G, 1 N, 1 G, 1 N, 2 G, 2 N, *5 N, 3 G, 7 N, 2 G, 1 N, 1 G, 1 N, 2 G, 2 N ; work from * 4 times.
Row 17: *3 N, 5 G, 9 N, 1 G, 6 N ; work from * 4 times, 3 N, 5 G, 4 N.
Row 18: 5 N, 3 G, 4 N, *2 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 6 N, 3 G, 4 N ; work from * 4 times.
Row 19: *4 Y, 3 R, 4 Y, 1 R, 1 Y, 2 R, (1 Y, 1 R) × 2, 1 Y, 2 R, 1 Y, 1 R ; work from * 4 times, 4 Y, 3 R, 4 Y, 1 R.
Row 20: 1 R, 4 Y, 3 R, 4 Y, *1 R, 1 Y, 2 R, (1 Y, 1 R) × 2, 1 Y, 2 R, 1 Y, 1 R, 4 Y, 3 R, 4 Y ; work from * 4 times.
Row 21: *4 N, 3 G, 6 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 2 N ; work from * 4 times, 4 N, 3 G, 5 N.
Row 22: 4 N, 5 G, 3 N, *6 N, 1 G, 9 N, 5 G, 3 N ; work from * 4 times.
Row 23: *2 N, 2 G, 1 N, 1 G, 1 N, 2 G, 7 N, 3 G, 5 N ; work from * 4 times, 2 N, 2 G, 1 N, 1 G, 1 N, 2 G, 3 N.
Row 24: 2 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 1 N, *5 N, 3 G, 6 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 1 N ; work from * 4 times.
Row 25: *2 G, 3 N, 1 G, 3 N, 2 G, 6 N, 1 G, 6 N ; work from * 4 times, 2 G, 3 N, 1 G, 3 N, 2 G, 1 N.
Row 26: 1 N, 2 G, 3 N, 1 G, 3 N, 2 G, *6 N, 1 G, 6 N, 2 G, 3 N, 1 G, 3 N, 2 G ; work from * 4 times.
Complete all 26 rows of the chart.
Continuing all in Natural, (N) and stocking st. increase at each end of the next, then every 6th row until you have 114 sts. on the needles.
Work 50 rows in N.
If necessary, work more rows here before shaping the armholes.
Shape Armholes
Cast off 4 sts. at the beg. of the next 4 rows
and 2 sts. at the beg of the next 6 rows. (86 sts. remain)
Work next 4 rows in Green
2 rows in Red
2 rows in Yellow
2 rows in Red.
In the next section you’ll be splitting the front for the neck opening.
The garter stitch edging is knit in green on smaller needles – at the same time – as the body is knit on larger needles.
Now with right side facing, work for opening as follows:
K. 39 sts in Green. Knit the next 8 sts with the smaller needles, turn; and keeping these 8 sts on the smaller needles in Green and garter stitch complete the final 4 rows of Green (thus completing the stripe sequence).
After completing the final green stripe, twist the different coloured yarns together where they meet, as if you were working intarsia.
5th Row: Join Natural wool and k 39, then with the smaller needles and Green wool, k3, cast off 2, k3.
Next row: K3, cast on 2 K3. purl in Natural to end.
Now continue, keeping the 39 sts. in Natural and stocking st on the larger needles and the 8 sts in Green and garter st on the smaller needles, working further buttonholes on every 9th and 10th rows until 4 buttonholes have been completed.
Work 2 more rows (38 rows of opening completed).
Shape Neck
Cast off 7 sts. at the beg. of the next row starting from the opening end, then work 8 rows and dec at the neck edge on each.
Shape Shoulder
Cast off 6 sts. at the beg. of the next 5 rows starting from the armhole edge and dec. at neck edge on the first 2 rows. Fasten off.
Work up other side of opening as follows: Cast on 8 sts. at the beg. of the first row in G. and keep them on the smaller needles in garter st throughout, then continue as for the other side to the end, but without buttonholes.
The Back
Work exactly as for the front using the following chart.
Back Chart in Words
Work in stocking stitch, beginning with a knit row.
Row 1 (RS): knit *2 G, 3 N, 1 G, 3 N, 2 G, 6 N, 1 G, 6 N ; work from * 4 times, 2 G, 3 N, 1 G, 3 N, 2 G, 1 N. (108 sts)
Row 2 (WS): purl 1 N, 2 G, 3 N, 1 G, 3 N, 2 G, *6 N, 1 G, 6 N, 2 G, 3 N, 1 G, 3 N, 2 G ; work from * 4 times.
Row 3: *1 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 6 N, 3 G, 5 N ; work from * 4 times, 1 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 2 N.
Row 4: 3 N, 2 G, 1 N, 1 G, 1 N, 2 G, 2 N, *5 N, 3 G, 7 N, 2 G, 1 N, 1 G, 1 N, 2 G, 2 N ; work from * 4 times.
Row 5: *3 N, 5 G, 9 N, 1 G, 6 N ; work from * 4 times, 3 N, 5 G, 4 N.
Row 6: 5 N, 3 G, 4 N, *2 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 6 N, 3 G, 4 N ; work from * 4 times.
Row 7: *4 Y, 3 R, 4 Y, 1 R, 1 Y, 2 R, (1 Y, 1 R) × 2, 1 Y, 2 R, 1 Y, 1 R ; work from * 4 times, 4 Y, 3 R, 4 Y, 1 R.
Row 8: 1 R, 4 Y, 3 R, 4 Y, *1 R, 1 Y, 2 R, (1 Y, 1 R) × 2, 1 Y, 2 R, 1 Y, 1 R, 4 Y, 3 R, 4 Y ; work from * 4 times.
Row 9: *4 N, 3 G, 6 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 2 N ; work from * 4 times, 4 N, 3 G, 5 N.
Row 10: 4 N, 5 G, 3 N, *6 N, 1 G, 9 N, 5 G, 3 N ; work from * 4 times.
Row 11: *2 N, 2 G, 1 N, 1 G, 1 N, 2 G, 7 N, 3 G, 5 N ; work from * 4 times, 2 N, 2 G, 1 N, 1 G, 1 N, 2 G, 3 N.
Row 12: 2 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 1 N, *5 N, 3 G, 6 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 1 N ; work from * 4 times.
Row 13: *(2 G, 3 N, 1 G, 3 N, 2 G, 1 N) × 2 ; work from * 4 times, 2 G, 3 N, 1 G, 3 N, 2 G, 1 N.
Row 14: 1 N, 2 G, 3 N, 1 G, 3 N, 2 G, *(1 N, 2 G, 3 N, 1 G, 3 N, 2 G) × 2 ; work from * 4 times.
Row 15: *4 N, 3 G, 6 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 2 N ; work from * 4 times, 4 N, 3 G, 5 N.
Row 16: 5 N, 3 G, 4 N, *3 N, 2 G, 1 N, 1 G, 1 N, 2 G, 7 N, 3 G, 4 N ; work from * 4 times.
Row 17: *5 N, 1 G, 9 N, 5 G, 4 N ; work from * 4 times, 5 N, 1 G, 6 N.
Row 18: 12: 2 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 1 N, *5 N, 3 G, 6 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 1 N ; work from * 4 times.
Row 19: *1 Y, 2 R, (1 Y, 1 R) × 2, 1 Y, 2 R, 1 Y, 1 R, 4 Y, 3 R, 4 Y, 1 R ; work from * 4 times, 1 Y, 2 R, (1 Y, 1 R) × 2, 1 Y, 2 R, 1 Y, 1 R.
Row 20: 1 R, 1 Y, 2 R, (1 Y, 1 R) × 2, 1 Y, 2 R, 1 Y, *1 R, 4 Y, 3 R, 4 Y, 1 R, 1 Y, 2 R, (1 Y, 1 R) × 2, 1 Y, 2 R, 1 Y ; work from * 4 times.
Row 21: *1 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 6 N, 3 G, 5 N ; work from * 4 times, 1 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 2 N.
Row 22: 6 N, 1 G, 5 N, *4 N, 5 G, 9 N, 1 G, 5 N ; work from * 4 times.
Row 23: *4 N, 3 G, 7 N, 2 G, 1 N, 1 G, 1 N, 2 G, 3 N ; work from * 4 times, 4 N, 3 G, 5 N.
Row 24: 5 N, 3 G, 4 N, *2 N, 2 G, 2 N, 1 G, 2 N, 2 G, 6 N, 3 G, 4 N ; work from * 4 times.
Row 25: *5 N, 1 G, 6 N, 2 G, 3 N, 1 G, 3 N, 2 G, 1 N ; work from * 4 times, 5 N, 1 G, 6 N.
Row 26: 6 N, 1 G, 5 N, *1 N, 2 G, 3 N, 1 G, 3 N, 2 G, 6 N, 1 G, 5 N ; work from * 4 times.
Complete to end of armhole shaping.
Work the 4 rows in G.,
2 in R.,
2 in Y.,
2 in R.,
4 in G.
Work 42 rows in N.
Shape Shoulders
Cast off 6 sts. at the beg. of the next 10 rows,
cast off remaining sts. loosely for the back of neck.
The Sleeves
Using the N wool and 2 of the larger needles (or smaller needles and a stretchy cast on of your choice), cast on 72 sts. and with smaller needles rib as for the back for 18 rows.
Change to the larger needles and pat. as chart for the 26 rows.
Continue in st.st. in N. wool and inc. at each end of the next then every 8th row until 96 sts. on needle.
Complete the 191/2” (49.5cm) or more if required.
Shape Top
Cast off 4 sts. at beg. of the next 8 rows.
then cast off 2 sts. at beg. of; the next 4 rows.
Now continue and dec. at each end of every other row until 26 sts. remain.
Cast off.
Work another sleeve likewise.
The Collar
Using the smaller needles, cast on 8 sts. in Green, 75 in Natural, 8 in Green.
Keeping the 8 sts. either end in g. st., on smaller needles and in G. and the 75 N. sts in rib, work 4 rows.
Now change the centre 75 sts. in N. to the larger needles and. keeping the 8 g.sts. in G. on the smaller needles, work 2 rows in st.st. over the N. sts.
Continue likewise, and inc. at each end of the N. sts by knitting into the loop between the sts (aka Make 1), on the next then every 2nd row until 10 rows have been completed.
Now over the Natural coloured sts. work 4 rows in Green, 2 in Red, 2 in Yellow, 2 in Red, and 4 in Green while continuing to inc. either end of every 2nd row as before.
Work 2 more rows in Natural. Now change to the smaller needles and Green. wool, and g.st. for 15 rows.
Cast off very loosely on the next row.
To Make Up
Join the sides, shoulders and sleeve seams. Set in the sleeves.
Pin collar into position, bringing front edges round to centre of buttonhole either side. Join neatly.
Neaten the opening as desired. Work buttonholes.
Press well under a damp cloth and warm iron. Sew on the buttons.