For an Under Spencer
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[edit] For an Under Spencer.
From Exercises in Knitting by Cornelia Mee. Original text at Project Gutenberg.
[edit] Original Pattern
For the sleeve, cast on 40 stitches, knit 6 rows plain knitting, seam and knit in twos 20 rows (the stripes at the beginning and ends will have 3 stitches), knit 6 rows plain knitting.
Seventh row:—Knit 3 stitches, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 4 stitches. Continue making a stitch, knitting 4 between, to the end of the row. Knit a stitch, increase a stitch, knit to within 2 stitches of the end, increase a stitch by knitting 2 in one loop. Continue increasing a stitch in every 6th row till there are 72 stitches; cast off 18 stitches, knit to the end of the row; cast off 18 more. Knit 2 together at the beginning of every row till only 24 stitches remain. Cast off, and sew up the sleeve.
For the back, begin at the waist by casting on 28 stitches, knit 3 plain rows, knit 3 stitches, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6. Continue making a stitch, and knitting 6 between, to the end of the row; knit 6 rows, knit 3 stitches, increase 1 by knitting 2 in one loop, knit to within 4 stitches of the end, increase 1 as before, knit 3, the next row knit plain. Continue to increase a stitch till within 3 stitches of the beginning and end of the needle, every second row, till there are 82 stitches. The next row, knit 3 stitches, knit 2 together, knit till within 5 of the end of the row, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 16 rows without increasing or decreasing (this is for the arm-hole); knit 3, knit 2 together, knit to within 5 of the end, knit 2 together, knit 3. Continue to decrease every row in this manner till only 24 stitches remain; cast off.
For the fronts, begin at the waist, cast on 52 stitches; knit 3 rows, knit 3 stitches, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6. Continue to make a stitch, and knit 6 between, to the end of the row; knit 12 rows, knit (from the front) 11 stitches, increase a stitch by knitting 2 in 1, knit to the end of the row, knit 3 rows, knit 12 stitches, increase 1, knit to the end, knit 3 rows, knit 13 stitches, increase 1, knit to the end, knit 3 rows, knit 15 stitches, increase 1, knit to the end, knit 3 rows, knit 17 stitches, increase 1, knit to the end, knit 3 rows, knit 18 stitches, increase 1, knit to the end, knit 3 rows, knit 19 stitches, increase 1, knit to the end. Knit 3 rows, knit 20 stitches, increase 1, knit to the end. There should now be 61 stitches on the needle. Knit 8 rows, without either increasing or decreasing: knit from the front 45 stitches; cast off 9; take another needle, knit the 7 which remain, knitting together the 2 first at the end of the needle, where you cast off every row till only 1 is left; cast off.
This is the beginning of the arm-hole. Knit 2 together at the beginning of each row at the arm-hole, until it is reduced to 37 stitches; knit 32 rows without increasing or diminishing; cast off 10 stitches from the front, knit a stitch, knit 2 together. Continue to decrease a stitch in front every row (inside the first stitch) till only 20 stitches remain. Leave off decreasing in front; knit to within 2 stitches of the end next the arm-hole; increase a stitch as before. Continue to do this every row till there are 27 stitches; knit a plain row, cast off, take up the stitches down one side of the spencer, knit 3 rows at one side, knit 3 stitches from the bottom, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit to the end of the row, knit 5 rows, cast off; at the other side knit 3 rows, knit 3 stitches from the bottom as before, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 10, make 1 stitch, knit 10, make 1 more, knit 10, make 1, knit 10, make another stitch, knit to the end.
For the button-holes, knit 5 rows, cast off, sew the back and fronts together, take up the stitches all round the neck, knit 3 rows, knit 4 stitches, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, make a stitch. Continue to make a stitch, and knit 6 between, to the end of the row. This is for a string to pass through, as are also the holes at the waist. Knit 8 rows, cast off, and sew in the sleeves.
This should be knit in No. 3 white lamb's-wool yarn and No. 14 steel pins.
[edit] Updated Version
The sample photographed above was worked with the following:
US size 1 straight knitting needles.
1 ball of Lion's Brand Wool-Ease sportweight yarn (140 grams/435 yards)
Gauge: 7 sts per inch; 12 rows per inch (6 garter stitch ridges)
With the following completed (tiny!) measurements:
Outside Sleeve Length (measured from neck edge to cuff edge): 10.5 inches
Inside Sleeve Length (measured from armpit to cuff edge): 8.5 inches
Bust (measured around chest at armpit): 29 inches
Waist (measured around bottom edge without gathering): 24 inches
Front Length (measured from neck to waist): 6 inches
Back Length (measured from neck to waist): 9 inches
[edit] Sleeves (Make 2)
Cast on 40 sts.
Rows 1-6: Knit across.
Row 7-26 (20 rows): * K2, P2, repeat from * to end.
Rows 27-32 (6 rows): Knit across.
Row 33: K3, yo, k2tog, * k4, yo, k2tog, repeat from * to last 5 sts, K5. (40 sts)
Row 34: K1, Kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1.
Rows 35-39: Knit across.
Row 40: K1, Kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1.
Rows 41-128: Repeat rows 35-40 (72 sts).
Row 129: Bind off 18 sts, knit to end (54 sts).
Row 130: Bind off 18 sts, knit to end (36 sts).
Rows 131-137: K2tog, k to end. Repeat this row until there are 24 sts.
Bind off. Sew sleeve seam.
[edit] Back
Cast on 28 sts.
Rows 1-3: Knit across.
Row 4: K3, * yo, k2tog, k6, repeat from * 3 times, k1.
Row 5-10: Knit across.
Row 11: K3, kfb, k to last 4 sts, kfb, k3.
Row 12: Knit across.
Rows 13-64: Repeat rows 11 & 12 (82 sts).
Row 65: K3, k2tog, k to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3 (80 sts).
Row 66-81: Knit across.
Row 82: K3, k2tog, k to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3 (78 sts).
Row 83-109: Repeat row 82 (24 sts).
Bind off.
[edit] Front (Make 2)
Cast on 52 sts.
Rows 1-3: Knit across.
Row 4: K3, * yo, k2tog, k6, repeat from * to last st., yo, k1 (53 sts).
Row 5-16: Knit across.
Row 17: K11, kfb, knit to end.
Row 18-20: Knit across.
Row 21: K12, kfb, knit to end.
Row 22-24: Knit across.
Row 25: K13, kfb, knit to end.
Row 26-28: Knit across.
Row 29: K15, kfb, knit to end.
Row 30-32: Knit across.
Row 33: K17, kfb, knit to end.
Row 34-36: Knit across.
Row 37: K18, kfb, knit to end.
Row 38-40: Knit across.
Row 41: K19, kfb, knit to end.
Row 42-44: Knit across.
Row 45: K20, kfb, knit to end (61 sts).
Rows 46-53: Knit across.
Row 54: Knit 45, bind off 9 sts, k2tog, knit to end.
For back of armhole:
Row 1: Knit across.
Row 2: K2tog, knit to end.
Repeat these two rows until there is only one stitch remaining. Pull thread through remaining stitch. Break yarn.
For front of armhole:
Returning to the 45 stitches from row 54:
Row 55 (Armhole edge): K2tog, knit across.
Row 56: Knit across.
Rows 57-69: Repeat rows 55 & 56 seven times, ending with a decreasing row (37 sts).
Row 70 (Neck edge): Bind off 10 sts, k1, k2tog, knit to end (26 sts).
Row 71: Knit across.
Row 72: K1, k2tog, knit to end.
Rows 73-82: Repeat rows 71 & 72 (20 sts).
Row 83 (Armhole edge): K1, kfb, knit to end.
Row 84: Knit across.
Rows 85-93: Repeat rows 83 & 84 (27 sts).
Bind off.
[edit] Finishing
[edit] Button Bands
Left:
Starting at the bottom, pick up and knit 34 sts along left front.
Rows 1-3: Knit across.
Row 4: K3, yo, k2tog, knit to end.
Rows 5-9: Knit across.
Bind off.
Right:
Starting at the bottom, pick up and knit 34 sts along right front.
Rows 1-3: Knit across.
Row 4: K3, yo, k2tog, (k5, yo) 4 times, knit to end.
Rows 5-9: Knit across.
Bind off. Sew back and fronts together at side and shoulder seams.
[edit] Neck Band
Pick up and knit 177 sts around the neck.
Rows 1-3: Knit across.
Row 4: K4, * yo, k2tog, k6, repeat from * and end with yo, k2tog, k4.
Row 5-12: Knit.
Bind off. Sew sleeves into armholes.
[edit] Abbreviations
I, the creator of this work, hereby release it into the public domain. This applies worldwide.
In case this is not legally possible, I grant any entity the right to use this work for any purpose,
without any conditions, unless such conditions are required by law.
