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Duffle Coat to fit 24″

Duffle coat

This image shows the Duffle Coat with a different button band than the pattern. I actually prefer the one in the pattern because it doesn’t curl as much. For this version I used an extremely light, softly spun 100% wool on KP 4. It took a total of 600 gms.

Child’s size 24″

Gauge

Body knitted by Bond on keyplate 4
Ribbing knitted by Bond on keyplate 4
Gauge (stocking st over 4 in = 10 cm): 14 st by 20.5 rows

Back
1. Cast on 58 sts in WY, using open edge method and keyplate 4. Knit 6 rows, ending COR. Change to MY.
2. Knit 66 rows.
3. Mark this row at both ends for armhole.
4. Knit 40 more rows. Total 106 rows
5. Back neck. Cast off centre 22 sts. 18 sts each side. Knit 6 rows with WY.

Front: Cardigan right side worked first.

1. Cast on 30 sts in WY, using open edge method and keyplate 4. Knit 6 rows, ending COR. Change to MY.
2. Knit 66 rows. COR.
3. Armhole. Mark this row at right end for armhole. Work 28 rows (94 rows total).
4. Shape neck. COR. Cast off centre 7 sts. Dec 1 st at neck edge (left end) every row 5 times, until 18 sts remain. Knit 7 rows even. Total 106 rows.
5. Cut yarn, leaving a 79.0 cms end. Knit 6 rows WY. Remove sts from machine.
6. Left cardigan front. Work as for right side, reversing shapings.

Back Ribbing: by machine.

1. With wrong side of work facing, hook first row onto 52 needles, (putting 2 sts onto 6 needles evenly spaced across the row, and 1 st on all other needles), and using keyplate 4 knit 1 row.
2. Thread every other st to WY and push the empty needles into NWP. Hang hem bar. Change to keyplate 4 and knit 10 rows.
3. Convert to 2×1 rib using latchet tool. Cast off loosely using backstitch.

Front Ribbings: by machine.

1. With wrong side of work facing, hook first row onto 27 needles, (putting 2 sts onto 3 needles evenly spaced across the row, and 1 st on all other needles), and using keyplate 4 knit 1 row.
2. Thread every other st to WY and push the empty needles into NWP. Hang hem bar. Change to keyplate 4 and knit 10 rows.
3. Convert to 2×1 rib using latchet tool. Cast off loosely using backstitch.

Shoulder Seams

Graft shoulder seam(s) on 18 sts.

Sleeves

1. Sleeve is grafted onto the body of the sweater, and worked down to the ribbing. Hang side edge of body between armhole markers on 52 needles, wrong side of work facing. Push sts back against the bed and hang hem as usual.
2. Push needles to FWP, place COR with keyplate 4 and thread up MY.
3. Knit first row very carefully. If very tight, or bulky yarn, you may want to knit the first row by hand. Knit 8 more rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next row, then every following 5th row 8 times, until 34 sts remain.
4. Knit 7 more rows without decreases. Total 56 rows.
5. Cut main yarn. Knit 6 rows WY. Remove sts from machine.

Sleeve Ribbing: by machine.

1. With wrong side of work facing, hook first row onto 28 needles, (putting 2 sts onto 6 needles evenly spaced across the row, and 1 st on all other needles), and using keyplate 4 knit 1 row.
2. Thread every other st to WY and push the empty needles into NWP. Hang hem bar. Change to keyplate 4 and knit 8 rows.
3. Convert to 2×1 rib using latchet tool. Cast off loosely using backstitch.

Shaped Hood

1. Cast on 84 sts in WY, using open edge method and keyplate 4. Knit 6 rows, ending COR. Change to MY.
2. Folded front band. Work even for 12 rows, with lace holes near the ends of row 3 for drawstring. To complete the band, graft the cast-on sts to the last row worked. Reset the row counter to 0.
3. Change to keyplate 4 and knit 4 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next row, then every following 4th row 6 times, until 70 sts remain. Knit a further 5 rows even (total 34 rows), excluding front band.
4. Cast off 26 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Work even on remaining 18 sts for 38 rows, total 74 rows excluding front band. Cast off loosely.

Button Band: Make 2

1. Using closed edge method of casting on for rib, and keyplate 4, cast on 7 sts, leaving every other needle in NWP. Knit 49.9 cms, converting to rib in stages as you go.
2. Check this length is sufficient, when slightly stretched, to go up cardigan front, from bottom of front ribbing, to top of collar band. Rib more if necessary.
3. Cast off. 4. On one band mark positions for 10 toggles, the first one 1.3 cms above the band bottom, the last one 1.3 cms below the band top. The rest should be evenly spaced between these two, approximately 5.3 cms apart.

Finishing

1. Sew side and sleeve seams using invisible seam. Sew back seam(s) of hood. Sew bottom of hood to neckline, easing to fit.
2. Sew in all loose ends.
3. Using a separate length of yarn for each one make button loops for each of the toggles at the point where the band meets the garment body. I used a simple piece of twisted cord threaded through the band and fastened on the back.


This pattern and all images on this page are Copyright © Sarah Bradberry February 1996. All rights reserved.